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Twinned with Pontivy and Celle
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 Pontivy
These days, Pontivy is a bright market town, its twisting old streets contrasting with the stately riverside promenades. At its northern end, occupying a commanding hillside site, is the Château de Rohan, built by the lord of Josselin in the fifteenth century (June–Sept Mon–Sat 9am–noon & 2–6pm; Oct–May Wed–Sat 10am–noon & 2–6pm; €4). Used in summer for low-key cultural events and temporary exhibitions, the castle still belongs to the Josselin family, who are slowly restoring it. At the moment, one impressive facade, complete with deep moat and two forbidding towers, looks out over the river – behind that, the structure rather peters out.

Pontivy's helpful tourist office is just below the castle, on place de Gaulle (Mon–Sat 10am–noon & 2–6pm; tel 02.97.25.04.10). Among local hotels are the low-priced Porhoët, nearby at 41 rue du Général-de-Gaulle (tel 02.97.25.34.88, porhoet@destination-bretagne.com; €30–40), and the grander De l'Europe, 12 rue François-Mitterand (tel 02.97.25.11.14; €40–55), which has a good restaurant. In addition, the local hostel, 2km from the gare SNCF on the Île des Récollets (tel 02.97.25.58.27; €8.08), is in good condition and serves cheap meals.
 
Pays de Pontivy

A town of contrasts

Beside Pontivy’s waterfront, a section of the vast Nantes-Brest canal, great squares stand in Napoleonic magnificence with their pollarded chestnuts and their grand civic buildings.

Walk away from the canal, and in a moment you’re in the main shopping street, running roughly north-south and extending, seemingly, for miles, crowded with businesses and parked cars.

Turn north along the narrow, shadowy pavements, and in momentsquares with their half-timbered buildings are seemingly plonked down wherever their original builders felt like putting them, with none of the severely ordered planning of the waterfront area.

Here, too, is Pontivy’s little pedestrian zone, where you can shop for toys or computer games, sit over a pizza or a crêpe, or simply follow your nose around winding lanes

Pontivy’s castle stands atop a green mound like an afterthought just
outside the main town. It still belongs to the Rohan family, whose
name lives on in the much smaller town of Rohan, down the road
in the gentle hillsides of inner Morbihan with their pastures, quiet
forests and scattering of ancient farms.
Head south from Pontivy, following the route of the summer tourist train from Auray and you’ll find yourself in a lonely countryside of sharp hills and twisting roads, high above the valley with its
canal. Buzzards soar above stands of old oak, forgotten hamlets loom unexpectedly around the shoulder of a hill. Roads rarely follow the exact line of a railway, because roads climb and dip where railways can’t. But if you trace the country lanes in the general direction of Auray, you’ll soon come to the Site du Castennec. Here, a razorbacks you’ll be in the cobbled heart of the medieval town. Here, the  ridge offers a striking view over the pretty town of Saint- Nicolas-les-Eaux, the Blavet river and the railway itself. On the horizon you can see the spire of the chapel of Saint-Nicodème, with its surprisingly famous fountain.

Return trip to days gone by
Rail enthusiasts as well as other sorts of day trippers are in for a treat in Morbihan. Every summer, all being well, the non-profit association Parb’Er runs a schedule of 1950s-1960s multipleunit trains taking you from Auray to Pontivy and
back – not least, back in time…